Bodega Erupción, Milagro de Magmasia, Lanzarote, Spain, 2022

The nose gives sourdough, Cox's pippin apples and fine herbs. There is a sense of stony salinity that carries through to the palate. Lemon drives this, but the salty, saline character is unmissable. Delicately flinty but textured, it finishes with bracing acidity. From pre-phylloxera vines, spontaneous fermentation is followed by 11 months on the lees.

A Malvasia 'born from ash' is how winemaker Amor López describes this expression of the variety indeed powerfully volcanic with its aromas carefully tamed by mineral veil. Finely etched aromas of rose petals, peach and nectarine lead to a vibrant palate of pear peel, crunchy pineapple and melon with a subtle iodin nuance.