Viñedos El Pacto, Jesús Acha, Senda de Haro Blanco, Rioja, Spain 2018

Subtle reduction, with struck-match aromas, add complexity to the wine. While it's reminiscent of top Burgundy, I'm hesitant to make that comparison because this is stunning in its own right. The palate is saline with fabulous texture. Mouthfilling, but supported by impressive acidity. This is a fantastic Viura (blended with small amounts of Malvasía, Garnacha Blanca, Jaina and others), reinterpreted for modern times. Senda de Haro is in Cárdenas, Rioja Alta, and is a 0.47ha plot, planted in 1912 on ferrous clay, that was a favourite of local grower Jésus Acha. A six-hour skin maceration precedes spontaneous fermentation then ageing for 18 months in second-use barrels from France and eastern Europe.