Orgo, Rkatsiteli, Kakheti, Georgia, 2023

Shining orange and clear as crystal in the glass, this amber Rkatsiteli saw four months on skins. It starts with mellow fruits like medlar and kumquat, then drops down into more grounding tones, like cobnuts, beeswax and apple skin. The texture creates this push and pull in the mouth: pushing, flowing acidity versus pulling, swelling grip, like the rocking of a ship.