Château de Fougères, Clos Montesquieu La Raison, Graves, Bordeaux, 2012

It’s quite a rarity to find wine with some age for under £20, let alone Bordeaux, so it’s great to see the new 2012 release of La Raison performing as well as the 2011. The price has gone up a nudge, but £16 is still excellent value for this wine. Garnet-coloured in the glass, the evolved aromas are immediate. Stewed plums, dried cranberries, cedar, tobacco, mushroom and cocoa all vie for position. The palate is sweetly fruited with ripe black cherries, chocolate, raisins and fruit cake. It is grippy, the tannins are present and dry, but with food this should really work well. This ticks all the boxes, is such a great intro to Bordeaux with a bit of age, and is drinking very accessible now. The winemaking is overseen by top Bordeaux consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt.